An idiot’s guide to mountaineering – Part 1

Here is the Video from the Summit on Danny's second atempted at the top :)

First of all i'd like to say that after 9 months this will be Danny's first EVER Blog entry.
-----------------------------------------------
1. Take great care when selecting your climbing partner

The night before our attempt at Mt Philistine we stayed in Arthur’s Pass where Alisa swatted up on mountaineering techniques from a copy of ‘Mountain Craft & Leadership’. I was a little alarmed at how hilarious she found each potentially lethal hazard the book described.

2. Be sure to get an ‘Alpine Start’

Between my faffing and Alisa’s need to drink a cup of coffee before doing anything in the morning we managed to start the walk in by 9.30, not sure if this counts as an alpine start.After about an hour we cross the river, leave the trail behind and make for ‘the bluffs’.

3. When the route gets tricky focus on your climbing and nothing else
This is basically my excuse for not taking any photos when climbing up through the bluffs. Our main challenge was without doubt the snow conditions. Through the steepest section of the climb the snow was totally unconsolidated (loose) and we were basically climbing the rocks and frozen ground beneath it. This meant that all axe and foot placements had to be searched for and offered little security. Though the climbing was never steep or technically demanding it was tenuous with potential falls that were best not thought about too much. It is also worth mentioning at this point that this was only Alisa’s second time climbing in crampons. After an hour or more of flailing it was with a little relief we reached the top of the bluffs.

4. When the going is good, get going. When it is not, wallow like a hippo on roller skates

The next section is a long steady climb up a gentle slope to the foot of the ridge that leads to the summit.


The going alternated between knee deep fresh snow (utterly exhausting) and pleasant firm sections of wind slab (unfortunately wind slab is the stuff of fatal avalanches). Fortunately the areas of wind slab were never big enough or unstable enough to cause us major concerns. We slowly ascended through a thin layer of cloud to ever improving views.

5. Know when to call it a day

Finally we reached the foot of the summit ridge. An alternative, more straight forward, route is possible that bypasses the ridge but we opted for the ridge as I was concerned about avalanche risk. Alisa led on up the ridge on increasingly sticky snow caused by the heat from the midday sun.

By this point our main concern was the time. The soft deep snow had cost us considerable time and our agreed ‘turn around’ time of 2pm was fast approaching. At points the ridge narrowed giving us superb views of the Otira valley beneath our feet and of Mt. Rolleston opposite.

We paused on a flat spot in the ridge, it was 1.30pm. We estimated it was another 200m to the top and, with the soft snow and unknown ridge ahead, it would take us at least another hour to get there. This would put us beyond our cut off time and could put us under time pressure climbing back down the bluffs, something we wanted to avoid. With this in mind we decided to have some lunch, take some pictures then head back down.

   
 
 
 

6. The top is only halfway

Down climbing the ridge required a little care but once we were on the easy ground we romped down. This time the knee deep snow was a useful way to slow the descent. At one point Alisa broke through the crust up to here knees and asked for a hand to pull her out. I thought my time would be better spent videoing her trying to extricate herself. Please let me know if you want a copy of the footage.

We were soon back at the top of the bluffs preparing for the tricky descent. As suspected down climbing proved to be harder than ascending and we decided to get the rope out for a little extra security. Progress was slow but fairly secure and we finally emerged at the foot of the difficulties.

7. The summit is only a bonus

We quickly packed the gear and, unencumbered by crampons, sprinted off down to find the trail. We finally made it back to the car as the light began to fail. Know that going on to the summit would have meant completing the descent in the dark made us happier about our decision to turn back and before we were out of the pass the decision was made to return for ‘round 2’ and this time was would get an ‘alpine start’… …probably.