Laos - Mekong to Luang Prabang

 Click here to see to the Photos on Photobucket site...

So we left Thailand and crossed the boarder into Laos by boat, a very cool way to cross a land border we thought. We then had to pass though Laos immigration, which was quite a laid back affair, $35 for the visa not $60 as we were quoted in Thailand, but as we crossed on a Saturday we had to pay the ‘official’ overtime fee of $1 per person.

So the plan was to travel for 2 days on a slow boat along the Mekong River until we reached the UNESCO world heritage town of Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos. We found our boat which was a long, flat bottomed, wooden barge type thing. We were given very tiny wooden benches to sit on. It was very clear to us the boat was full, with all benches taken up but the captain kept trying to cram more tourists on board. This was the point where we started a mutiny… we began shouting for another boat as there were no seats. This was quickly taken up by the rest of the passengers and very quickly another boat was made available… Power to the people! In a communist country eh?

So the journey still wasn’t comfortable but it was a definite improvement, as we set of along the Mekong we soon forgot about the discomfort and began a love affair with ‘Beer Laos’ and the gorgeous scenery along the river. The night before in Thailand we had teamed up with an Aussie called Vic, an English guy called Andy and a German named Rene, and man could they all drink.

So we had a nice time floating down river to our over night stop in Pek Beng. The guide book had given the impression that this place was a bit of a truck stop for the river boats and that accommodation was a little iffy; to find and in it’s quality. So we formed a plan, when we reached Pak Beng Danny and Vic left the boat at high speed to get us some rooms and we stayed to get the bags off the boat. When we arrived it was dark, trying to find your bags in the darkness and total chaos was an adventure, it didn’t help matters that the local kids were climbing on board the boat and taking any bags they could carry off the boat and then asking for money. This was easy to cope with IF and only If you could see where the little buggers had gone!

So, all worked out ok and we headed off to our very basic but only thing around accommodation, We went straight over the road to a nice looking bar/restaurant for food and were welcomed very warmly by the owner and staff. We had a great time with them and the local whisky (Lao Lao) stared to flow, then the local weed was offered about and it was rude to say no really as they were being so nice :). We left Pak Beng with a very favourable view and think it deserves a much better rep in the guide books.

The next day we arrived in Luang Prabang, and were very pleasantly surprised as to how pretty the town was. We got somewhere to stay and then sought out the local night market, not as vast as the Thai markets but very good food all the same. You can get any bit of meat on the many BBQ stalls they have and the river fish was amazing. We also got offered a lot of shots of Lao Loa whisky again to the point where I was quite drunk, hic.

We chilled out the next day, and took it easy with an excellent Lao Massage… they really do pummel you but you feel great afterwards and it was an hour for the equivalent of £3. We joined the others for a drink later more Beer Lao was consumed and as the town has to shut its bars at 11:30 we teamed up with some locals that the guys had met earlier and went ‘Bowling’. We really did go ten pin bowling but as it is just outside the town limits all the ‘falang’, foreigners go there to drink. I of course won the bowling but everyone so utterly pissed on the return that we crammed as many falang into, and onto the tuk tuk as we could for the return. How we didn’t get arrested for breaching the peace I’ll never know.

So, today we visited the local waterfall and it’s is the most amazing place. It has so many tiers and due to the mineral content is turquoise blue and the minerals have formed gentle pools that work there way back up the hill side. We had a swim in one of the lower pools and Danny seeing the rope swing kept launching himself into the air and dropping into the pool below.

The water wasn’t that warm but we felt better afterwards for the dip. We will be staying here another day or so before moving onto Vang Vieng, where we will be doing a lot of outdoor stuff. Look out for the links to the photos on Facebook and I’ll hopefully remember to add the links to them here as well.

Merry Christmas everyone!!

Thailand Continued...

So the last blog entry was back on the island of Koh Samet, We had such a great time there, it couldn't have been more different from Nepal, we left Samet and took a 3 hour bus ride to koh Chang the biggest of the island that are on to the south of Bangkok.

The best part about Ko Chang was the amazing sunset from our hut on the cliff top and the fact that it had a hammock which i couldn't prise Danny out of for 3 days. The seafood was great there if a little expensive for our very small budget of £5 for a meal for 2 lol. ko Chang was very 'resort' centred and we didn't like that so much so we bought a ferry ticket from a nice ladyboy who gave us a 100bt discount... Danny smiles at him/her nicely :)

So we took the ferry to Koh Wai a very small island that was about 1 hour away. We had a little hut on the beach and at hide tide the sea was just below our bedroom window. We were happy stranded on our desert island for 4 days, we spent most of our time sunbathing and snorkeling and we had great fun with the underwater camera taking pictures of the fish. There is a marine conservation project running on the island where they are building new coral reefs and its a great place to see all the fish. The little Damsel fish were like a pack of dogs and as soon as you got in the water you had a little shoal of them following you around :)

So, we left Koh Wai and stayed in a little town called Trat, where we discoverd the 'night market' Danny has decided that night markets are the best place on earth, they sell so much amazing food and they are sooo cheap. You could happily eat yourself to death at them and Danny seems determined to try to do jsut that. We spend a total of 12 days in the islands whic was jsut what we needed after weeks in Kathmandu.

The return to Bangkok was a Long 7 hour bus journey, followed by a local bus ride from some remote bus station north of the city centre. By the time we got back to central Bangkok we were both ready to drop, Danny was in pain and i was in need of a serous amount of beer.

We had a day or so in Bangkok traveling around on the water taxis, which is really the only way to travel round Bangkok. The Tuk tuk scam makes that form of transport not viable, and the taxis are metred when they feel like it and you don't look like a tourist. Otherwise you end up paying a fortune as tourist equals money in downtown Bangkok.

We, had a tour booked with TAT the Thai tourist office who are very efficient. We took a day train to Ayuttaya the old capital of Thailand which you'd think was interesting until you get there and realise it's a shithole with some ruins in the middle of it. It was baking hot and not the weather for stumbling though ruins of buildings that all look the same. Danny was so unimpressed, although we saw 1 cool thing the Buddha head covered in tree roots. That was it for the whole town.. so don't go there!

After we left the boring towns behind we took the night train direct to Chiang Mai in the far north. We have hired ourselves a moped and we have found the local climbing site which is really nice. All sport routes but great quality rock and really well looked after areas for belaying. photos of this will follow I'm sure.

When we arrived we took a 3 day jungle trek which is worth a blog all of it's own. It was good fun and it was great to see the countryside of north Thailand as opposed to the coast.

So that's about it for the Thailand story, we will be leaving for Laos in 4 days where we take the slow river boat (2 days) to the city of Luang Prabang which is supposed to be lovely. We should be spending Christmas in a place called Vang Vieng, lots of rock climbing, river rafting, trekking and the most important of all 'tubing' floating down the river in a tractor inner tube stopping for beer all the way.., we've even bought the Santa hats to where on the way!

Merry Christmas folks!

The Full Tharpu Chuli Epic Climb

Here is the full story from Danny's and Akhil's Epic Climb

Ko Samet Sunshine

After the cold weather started in Nepal we decided that it was time we had a beach holiday. We arrived In Thailand after a 7 hour delay in Kathmandu while Royal Nepalese Airlines trained there first pilot and bought a plane…. Don’t ever fly on a Nepalese plane… ever!

So we had 1 day in Bangkok and booked ourselves the bus down to the islands near the mainland. Ko Samet and Ko Chang. We had nowhere booked so it was a bit seat of the pants kind of thing. We arrived and headed to a place that the lonely plant guide told us was 300/400 baht (our budget was 400 = £8 a night) the cheap place turned out to be 800 baht per night, which blow us out the water. They told us there was cheaper place in the next bay to Danny revved the hamsters and ran round the headland. I sat and guarded the bags and had a beer.

Lucky for us, the next place wasn’t so posh and Danny got us a room with fan and a toilet for 400baht (£8). The place is a bit run down but they make the most amazing breakfast, we’ve been eating, toast with jam, fried eggs and bacon each morning all for £4. After the food in Nepal we’ve been in breakfast heaven!

The 2^nd night what I thought was Danny fidgeting woke me up but on closer inspection next day we discover that we were sharing our bed with a critter (mouse). It was living inside the headboard, which had an open space behind it. So, we stared operation ‘mouse trap’ Danny got the broom from outside, with the broom ready we pulled back the bed so we could see the space, in the far corner I spotted a little twitchy nosey, Danny immediately swooped in a hit it with the broom, the mouse jumped valiantly to the floor running for cover under the bed. But Danny was too quick for him and blasted him with all bristles. The brave little fella ran for a chair but to no avail as Danny deftly remove the chair I open the door and the mouse was swept to freedom.

We were pretty happy with ourselves until later that evening we hear a rustling in the eves above us…. He was back!

It seems no matter where we eat in the bay the food is always amazing, if the Thais know how to do one things it make great food, although Danny has to have a large rice, which makes the girls serving us laugh as large rice here is for at least 4 people.

We have both reverted to 8 years olds, Danny a lot quicker than me as he was a child anyway… we have been snorkelling and playing with sea cucumbers (Danny calls them something else) we’ve been playing around in the sea on rubber rings, diving off the pier and even have taken a day out on a sea kayak, which was really great paddling down the coast of the island stopping at the little bays as we went.

We move next to the island Ko Chang and here we might do a little hiking…. Maybe J

Tharpu Chuli (5695m) - DONE!

A man of few words... so here's the video



And here is a link to all the photos... discriptions will follow soon!
http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn360/nennapuss/Tharpu%20Chuli/

7 Days In Tibet

http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn360/nennapuss/The%20great%20outdoors/Tibet/

For the last 7 days I have been composing what to write about Tibet. Now it comes to it I can’t seem to find a place to start. Do I start at the beginning of the trip and go through it day by day or do I tell you about how beautiful the landscape is or how it feels to be a westerner in a land where tourism is tolerated and not encouraged, or do I tell you about the tragic situation of the people and the monks under the rule of the Chinese?

It’s the highest nation on earth, the air is so cold and dry that your skin turns to paper and just breathing normally doing the simplest things is a challenge. You have to be born tough to even survive in this place. But, in compensation for this hardship you’re surrounded by the most awe inspiring landscape. This place is a desert in the sky; only in the lands around Lhasa do you start to see trees again.

After a long delay driving into Tibet (Chinese government closes the only road inland until 6pm in the evening) we started out from Nyalam (3700m) early in the morning. We drove out of town sharing the road with the local Yak. Our first real view of Tibetan landscape followed as the sun rose over the mountain and illuminated the distant Himalaya. We drove along the only road in the area, built by the Chinese, leading directly to Lhasa. We drove over our first high pass that morning and were rewarded with amazing views of MT Cho Oyo (8201m) and Mt Xishapagma (8012m). The wind torn at you as you stood at the pass, the area was covered in prayer flags to bless all the travellers who crossed the vast empty spaces. The sun hitting the mountains made them glow in the thin air. This was the point I realised that I was stood on the top of the world an there weren’t many people stood higher than me that day.

We spent the rest of the day travelling across the plateaux, if you like vast open empty spaces this is an awe-inspiring place. You get a clear idea of why the Tibetan people are as spiritual as the hardship of the conditions and the beauty of the landscape must mould a psyche where belief in life after death must be an asset to survival.

That evening we stopped in a little one horse town called Lhatse, I had noticed a small rundown monastery on our way in which I wanted to visit. All across the empty spaces we passed that day we saw many ruins of past monastery. Back when the Chinese invaded they spend a great deal of energy murdering monks and burning monasteries. I assume this was done in order to destroy the Tibetan religion and sprit. I wanted to visit this monastery; if the monks would let me, to get my first sense of what was so threatening to the Chinese. The good thing about this monastery was the absence of a military presence watching the monks. The whole place must only have housed 10 monks at the most.

Being western in a town like Lhaste made you stand out but most of the local people were just curious about us, as I walked up the road, many people smiled and said hello, as I neared the monastery, itself a group of children playing nearby rushed over and started yelling hello, hello. I made a little video of them and played it back for them, to they’re delight.

We walked into the grounds and the head monk called us in, he was obviously pleased that we had come to visit and with great enthusiasm unlocked the small chapel doors for us. Inside were to images of respected Lamas one from India and one from Nepal. The Chinese rigidly control the Lama images and the Dali Lama is totally banned in Tibet.

The monk who spoke a little English told us about he object and icons and was happy for us to take pictures and video. We very carefully mentioned the fact that thee was no Dali Lama image at which the monk smiled and said ‘no Dali Lama’ we told him that we understood the difficulty and that the west is very much aware of the situation in Tibet.

It was a wonderful opportunity to speak with the monks about the Chinese situation and it was the only opportunity we had, even though we visited many more monasteries and palaces, never again were we able to speak feely with the monks due to the police following us or the risk of other monks informing. The risk of speaking about politics in or near monks or monasteries can have dire consequences not for us but for the monks and guides. Our guide told us about an unfortunate guide who had answered a political question put to him by a westerner, he was over heard by a monk who informed the police and the guide was given 15 years imprisonment. So the risk is high for both monks and guides.

On the journey we visited the Panchen Lama’s Tashilhumpu Monastery, this is the place where the Stupors (burial chambers) of all the Panchen Lama’s held. The Panchen Lama is the rank below the Dali Lama. The Dali Lama looks after the spiritual and political heath of the people of Tibet and that is why he is excluded by the Chinese who site him as a threat to Chinese rule. The Panchen Lama looks after the Spiritual well being of the people there have been 14^th Dali Lama’s and 11 Panchen Lama’s. The 10^th Panchen Lama is rumoured to have been poisoned after he was return from imprisonment by the Chinese. His tomb (stupor) is held at the Tashihumpu monastery. The 11^th Panchen Lama was taken as a child by the Chinese. There is a debate as to his whereabouts and even if he is still alive. Although I fond a book in Lhasa that showed the teaching and photos of the 11^th Panchen Lama.

Trekking and Hospitals

So the last 3 weeks or so have been a sore challenge to both the feet and the intestines. We had a 2 week trek covering the areas of Helambu, Gosai Kunda and Langtang. It was the most painful thing i have done that was by choice. Danny on the other hand just romped away like some demented English puppy scampering up cliffs and mud slides.

We stared just outside Kathmandu on a sunny morning and immediately started a 1000m ascent, we were so worn out by the end of the first day that i thought i was going to die of heat exhaustion and we manged to find lodging in the house of an Hindu Sadhu called Baba Gee. Who had renounced the world and spent his days tending his shrine and smoking weed. He worshiped a 'powerful lingum stone' which was a stone that was suppose to represent the power of the male member and of course all life... this became a theme as we got to Gosai Kunda where the whole lake was given over to piles of rock or 'powerful lingum stones'

So we walked for 4 or 5 days an at first the weather was great warm and pleasant then i started to rain and didn't stop raining for 5 days... This would have been find if we had been in Kathmandu but out on the side of a mountain gaining altitude each day made it more and more dangerous. We had to get over a 4200m pass to get to the otherside where we were told the rain wasn't as bad. We decided to try for the pass but as we got half was there the rain turned to sleet and we were already soaked to the skin. I started to freeze and Danny scampered ahead and found the last lodge before the pass. We fell into Ram Sherpa's place and were quickly supplied with hot tea and covered ourselves in blankets.

The rain stopped for a hour or so and the view was amazing. we had climbed for 6 days and were nearly dead with cold but the you don't get a view like that without some effort...

So the next day we headed over the pass (in the rain) and decided to Gosai Kunda, this is the scared are for Hindus and Buddhist and is a beautiful place of lakes and sheers drops. I got altitude sickness and a cold so felt like crap. Danny as usual was fine... nothing seemed to stop the wind up elastic band that runs Danny's hamsters.

So we planned our 'Escape from Gosai Kunda' which involved a 2000m drop in the pouring rain to a small village on the otherside called Thlo Shyabru. That had to have been the worse day for me i had a really bad head and each footstep made my brain ring like a bell, it was torrential rain and the path was running with water and the footing was mud. It was beyond words to describe how we both felt when we got the the best guest house in the world!

Peace Lodge, they took us in, built us a fire, gave us a hot bucket of water to wash with and fed us.... never been so happy :) I even had a beer much to Danny disapproval, which didn't stop him drinking it too.

This was the point where we could have chosen to return to Kathmandu, the rain was still falling and we'd been truly battered by the elements. But it seemed such a waste of pain to stop now, so we decided to go up the other valley to Langtang. This is where the really big mountains lived and Danny was in puppy mode again so there was no stopping him. So with hamsters in overdrive we set off to get to the top of the valley in 2 days.....

It was the best decision we made as the weather started to clear and we got to see the most wonderful sights. The tail follows a river that was in full flood, it was awesome walking next to an element that had so much power it was a very angry river. We past our first automatic prayer wheel that was run via a water wheel, we walked our first massive suspension bridge, we got followed through the forest by a troop of white monkeys and we met and chatted to some great local people.

Langtang lays directly against the border with Tibet and it's the only location where the Nepalese and Tibetans trade over the boarder. there are a lot of Tibetan refugees in this area and the people in the area a very poor. the kids can't go to school because the parents can't afford the pens and paper to send them.

So with the sun now shinning we were feeling good, my feet hurt like hell Danny's foot was starting to cause him problems but we got to the top of the valley in 2 days and then dumped out bags and sprinted the last 2 miles to the glaciers and mountains... we had a great afternoon sitting in a little village at the head of the valley chatting to an English couple. Danny talked about trekking and adventure and i talked about toilets... very important thing for a woman a good toilet.

So, we got back down and hired a jeep to take us back to Kathmandu, we arrived feeling great, sore feet but healthy. Unknown to us that night some water borne parasite got into our water and down we went like flies. I shan't describe the visual but it took several days in hospital for me to stop evacuating all stomach contents.

The last week has been hell in Kathmandu... Danny has gone to Annapurna sanctuary to climb Tharpu Chuli peak with Akhil and i have opted to travel to Tibet instead as i'm still on the road to recovery and 2 weeks of walking and climbing is beyond me.

We'll be out of contact again until 5th of November-ish. Hopefully Danny will have climbed his 5600m peak and i will have seen the amazing city of Lhasa.